By Maciek Klimowcz
For most Thais and foreigners living in Thailand, up until recently there have been but two options – either they’ve never heard about German cuisine, or all they associated it with was sauerkraut and sausages. But then Sühring twins entered the stage and thigs started getting interesting.
In Bangkok the opening of Sühring restaurant was the talk of the town. Established by twin brothers Mathias and Thomas Sühring, previously chefs at Mezzaluna at LeBua, in partnership with Gaggan Anang of the serial first position holder on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, Gaggan, it brought a breath of fresh air into the city’s culinary scene. In fact, Sühring’s concept of modern German cuisine made a big enough impression to land it on the 13th spot of the above mentioned list, just one year after opening.
But that’s Bangkok. Here in Phuket things are a tad slower and the latest trends don’t reach us instantaneously. Don’t get me wrong, this is no complaint, if I wanted to live at the center of all the action, I would have never migrated here from the capital. Especially that firstly – whatever Phuket lacks in keeping up with trends and fashion, it makes up for with fresh air and sea vistas, and secondly – thanks to resorts such as Trisara, the novelties do reach the island, albeit with a delay, but still sooner than any other place in Thailand.
Yet trying to bring the latest and greatest isn’t the only reason why Trisara chose to team up with Sühring for their latest culinary series event. What connected them both – the resort and the restaurant, is found deeper, at their DNA level.
“Unpretentious, simple, honest food defines the experience “, proclaimed Anthony Lark, Trisara’s GM, in his speech preceding Sühring’s pop up at the resort, and if you’ve ever had the pleasure of staying at Trisara, you know that all the adjectives he mentioned, describe it well. Yes, it’s a luxurious resort, but it’s a luxury of an understated kind, elegant and never flashy. From the classy design of the villas, through the intriguing dishes served at the excellent PRU restaurant, to flawless service across the resort, Trisara is an ode to simple yet refined pleasures.
How does Sühring fit into that? Perfectly. What Sühring twins serve at their restaurant is exactly that – simple yet refined. The menu isn’t made exciting through elaborate recipes or with exotic ingredients, it’s more about staying true to the country of its origin. Sühring’s German cuisine is regional and rooted in local traditions or simply – authentic. The twins pay homage to Germany’s central European location by introducing to their plates influences from the country’s north, south east and west. Sometimes they take form of fish-based dishes from Baltic’s coast, sometimes of home-made noodles from Swabia in the south, a French touch from Germany’s west or a strong influence of Eastern Europe someplace else. Unpretentious, honest, local and simply delicious.
And refreshing. Many restaurants and resorts, in Bangkok and in Phuket, compete for our attention with flamboyance and splendor, with bucketful’s of caviar and layers of gold. But sometimes a bigger impact is created by sticking to the basics. Great food, great wine, great company – these are the simple rules of the table. Are rules are good, just ask any German.