Phuket is evolving into an International food centre and researching DeDos illustrates just how complex and global the foodie scene here in Phuket.
Owner Chef Pablo Blattmann journey here started almost 20 years ago, when his Bolivian father took him as a young high school student to Chicago to watch Bolivia play Germany in a 1994 World Cup in Chicago. His dad suggested they eat at a Thai restaurant- tastes unheard of in Bolivia in those days- and this started a love affair with Asian/Thai food that would see Pablo move to Thailand in 2008 and eventually start his own restaurant.
Pablo’s mother was Swiss and taught him the basics of the kitchen, but initially this was not his chosen profession. He studied law and then worked in a law firm for 3 years before realizing his dream lay in a different direction. He enrolled in the world famous “Institut Paul Bocuse” in Lyon (France’s culinary capital) and completed his 2 year diploma in 2002. He then went on to work in a number of Michelin Star restaurants before returning to the “Institut” in 2007 to do a Diploma in Restaurant Management.
The course required a 6 month’s internship and so Pablo chose Thailand and the then Sheraton Resort Laguna (now Angsana). In 2008 the only stylish restaurants in Cherngtalay were The Siam Supper Club, Tatonka and Toto so Pablo decided there was scope for a French Gastronomy Restaurant with an Asian touch so he established DeDos with a colleague from the Sheraton and now life partner Khun Bee.
De Dos or DeDos - depends on how you write it - in Spanish De Dos as two words means “from/of two” (and refers to the two owners Pablo and Khun Bee) or DeDos as one word means fingers which is what all good chef use to add spices or taste a dish. If you look at the logo it has 3 components - a plate plus a finger print to denote uniqueness on a plate and the name superimposed. As you talk to Pablo, it is clear you are talking to a very creative and passionate person. When you visit DeDos always take time to chat to Chef/Owner Pablo - in fact in any restaurant chatting to the Chef is always the best way to understand the cuisine and appreciate the style of the place and understand what the specials of the day are.
I enjoy my wines and regular readers know that the marriage of food and wine is the ultimate dining experience. Phuket has recently seen a spate of cheap “fruit wines” served. It is often bulk wine with 10% of fruit juice added to attract a much lower tax so restaurants can maximize their beverage earnings. A “fruit wine” can be bought for about 250 baht a bottle and sold for 200 baht a glass.
Pablo ensures that DeDos only sells “real wine” (no fruit juice added) and offers 80 labels with 11 wines offered by the glass. As a result, he mainly attracts 50 + retirees, who want top quality classic dishes with an Asian twist and who are prepared to pay for a dining experience. There are only about 20 restaurants in Phuket who are constantly recognized for quality and consistency. A quick check of TripAdvisor shows 242 out of 262 reviews rate DeDos as either Excellent or Very good - that is over 90% and a great credit to Chef Pablo and his team.
As to the food, some recommendations:
Starters:- Tartar Duo; Foie Gras poele; Crab meat salad
Mains:- Duck breast “Pomelo”; DeDos Tuna; lamb rack
Desserts:- Hot Lava Cake; Ginger Crème Brulee; Crepe Suzette.
After 8 years of persevering, Pablo opens DeDos LeLounge in Surin at the old Sugo site on 16 December. He has recruited Canadian Chef Jean Philippe from Quebec to prepare Tapas and other delights in a location with lots of potential - I haven’t been there yet but understand it has a very interesting bar.
By Ian Lancaster